Decks · Houston Heights & Greater Heights
New decks, rebuilds and honest repairs for Heights houses that sit high on pier-and-beam, back onto narrow yards and share space with old trees.
Most Heights deck calls start with one of three situations: a tired deck that might be saved, a deck that looks fine on top but is failing underneath, or a back door that sits two or three steps above the yard with nothing outside it. Each leads to a different scope and a different budget, so the first visit is spent working out which one you actually have.
Bungalows and cottages here usually have raised floors, back elevations altered by past additions, and side yards too narrow for a machine. That shapes everything from the stair layout to whether the deck should attach to the house at all. Where the existing wall or rim is marginal, a freestanding frame keeps new fasteners out of an old assembly.
Worth it when the framing, footings and ledger are sound and the problem is limited to boards, a stair or a section of railing. We probe the framing before recommending a repair, because new boards over soft joists only hide the problem.
When the substructure checks out but the surface is worn, splintering or the wrong material. Composite needs joist spacing and a flat frame that older decks often lack, so a resurface sometimes turns into partial reframing.
When footings have moved, joists are rotted at the connections, or the layout no longer works. Tearing down to the ground lets us correct height, stairs and drainage under the deck, and choose footings for the soil rather than inheriting old ones.
A first deck off a raised back door. The main decisions are height and stairs, attached versus freestanding, how to work around roots, and whether the space under it needs to stay accessible.
Photos of our projects, labeled with where they were built. Reference images are marked as such.
| Brazilian hardwood (ipe, garapa) | Composite (Trex, TimberTech) | |
|---|---|---|
| Look | Real wood grain; greys to silver if left unoiled | Consistent color; wide range of tones |
| Upkeep | Periodic cleaning and oiling to keep color | Washing; no staining |
| Heat underfoot | Generally comfortable | Can get hot in full afternoon sun, varies by product and color |
| Framing demands | Pre-drilling and stainless fasteners; dense, heavy boards | Manufacturer joist spacing, gapping and ventilation rules |
| Airflow underneath | Important — low, enclosed decks need ventilation | Also required by most manufacturers |
| Best fit | Pool decks, low platforms, owners who like wood | Sunny back decks where low maintenance matters most |
We price from a site visit rather than a square-foot number. These are the factors that move the figure most. Try the budget tool for an illustrative amount at our standard rates.
Raised floors mean taller posts, guards and longer stair runs; each step adds material and labor.
Removing an old deck and finding rotted rims or failed footings changes the scope. We price that risk openly rather than surprise you mid-build.
Board material is a large share of cost; hardwood and premium composites sit at the upper end.
Footing type and depth depend on the structure and the soil at your address.
A single side gate means every board and bag of concrete is hand-carried.
Cable or metal rail, integrated lights and removable skirt panels add up quickly.
The finished deck should land a safe step below the door threshold. On high pier-and-beam houses that drives guard and stair requirements.
We favor small, hand-dug footings positioned around major roots, and leave room for trunk growth.
If the rim or siding cannot take a ledger properly, the deck stands on its own posts.
Some Greater Heights properties sit inside City of Houston historic districts and some do not; ZIP codes do not tell you which. Whether a Certificate of Appropriateness is needed depends on the specific address and scope of work, not only on what is visible from the street. That review is separate from building permits, and deed restrictions are separate again. We check the address on the City historic district map at the first visit and plan drawings and schedule around whatever review actually applies.
Measure heights, check access and probe any existing framing.
Layout, material choice and repair-versus-rebuild decision in writing.
Building permit and any historic or deed-restriction review that applies.
Remove what is failing, set footings, and correct drainage under the deck.
Frame to the decking manufacturer’s requirements, then lay boards.
Guards, stairs, lighting and a final walkthrough together.
Projects are led by principals Omar Afra and Pedro Salazar.
Often, if the footings, joists and ledger connection are sound. We test the framing in several spots before recommending a repair. If the frame is soft or the footings have moved, new boards would not last and a rebuild is the honest answer.
Hardwood suits owners who want real wood and accept oiling or a silver patina; composite suits sunny decks where low upkeep matters more than grain. Both need good airflow underneath, and composite needs a flat frame to the manufacturer’s spacing.
Many decks need a City of Houston building permit, depending on height, size and attachment. Separately, if the property is in a historic district, some visible work also needs a Certificate of Appropriateness. We confirm both for your address.
Usually, by positioning small hand-dug footings around major roots and avoiding trenching. For large or high-value trees, an arborist’s input is worth having before design is final.
A site visit is the fastest way to a real scope and number.